Etan Moira MacNessa
Awards Received
Award of Arms (An Tir) By: Thorin Njalsson, Angharad Drakenhefd o Fynydd Blaena May 19, 1990 (AS XXV) Jambe de Lion (An Tir) By: Gunnarr Brunwulf, Gabriell MacBain May 16, 1992 (AS XXVII) Magistrae Ithra (Ithra) Nov 15, 1992 (AS XXVII) Seagull (Seagirt) By: None listed for this time period Aug 5, 1995 (AS XXX) Baron's Favor (Dragon's Mist) By: Finn Grim Aug 18, 2017 (AS LII) Princess' Talon of Favor (Tir Righ) By: Nadezhda Toranova Feb 17, 2018 (AS LII) Prince's Favor (Tir Righ) By: William MacBrennan Feb 17, 2018 (AS LII) Etoile d'Argent (Tir Righ) By: William MacBrennan, Nadezhda Toranova Feb 17, 2018 (AS LII)
Offices / Retinue
Joint Arts Mistress Seagirt -1989-1992 Shire waterbearer Seagirt 1989 -1991 Co-autocrat for the feast of the Immaculate Confection, Seagirt 1991 Various judging for Principality and Kingdom A&S competitions Lady in Waiting – Princess Nadezhada Toranove, Tir Righ
Classes
Classes Basic Embroidery, blackwork, Bayeaux tapestry stitch, Introduction to tapestry weaving, Colleguium class on the History of Gothic tapestry
Works
1989 –
Embroider 2 panels of the Seagirt Tapestry
Embroider and make yellow dress, large embroidery border based on an early sword scabbard
1992 –
design and embroider Eduardo’s peacock cloak
Create a complete early Celtic outfit for Eduardo, including weave trim and appleque celtic knotwork border
Blackwork bands for various people
2017 – print, embroider outline in gold, and hand sew blue Norman tunic for William Mac Brennan
Norman socks for both William MacBrennan and Finn Grimm – print, embroider and sew
2018 - Design and execute the ducal cloak for Duke Savric
Print and embroider border of Celtic beast from the Chapel at Cashel, hand sew the tunic
Two Mille fleur tapestries based on the Unicorn tapestry, one my own design
King Arthur Tapestry
Sampling for the Baldishol tapestry, and Norse beast using the techniques from the Baldishol tapestry
Tapestry Work
Database -
Database Bibliography - Tapestry: Craft & Art, Maurice Pianzola, Coffinet, Julien; van Nostrand Reinhold Company, (1971)
Masterpieces of Tapestry; Metropolitan Museum of Art (1973)
Wrought in Gold & Silk, Quye, Anita; Halleett, Kathryn; Carretero, Concha Herero, (2009)
This book has the most information on restoration and dyes
The Lost Tapestries of the City of Ladies, Bell, Susan Groag, University of California Press
World Tapestry , Jarry, Madeleine, G.P. Putnam's Sons, New York, (1968)
Tapestry in the Renaissance: Art and Magnificence, Metropolitan Museum of Art Swiss Medieval Tapestries, Gysin, Frederic
A good look at Tapestries that are not usually included in other books
Five Centuries of Tapestry, Bennett, Anna Grey, Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco
The Tapestry Collection: Medieval and Renaissance, Digby, G.F. Wingfield, the V&A Museum
The Art of Tapestry, Various texts, Thames & Hudson, (1964)
The Lady and the Unicorn, Sutherland Lyall, Parkstone Limited, London, (2000)
The Unicorn Tapestries at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Adolfo Salvatore Cavallo; Yale University Press, New Haven & London, (1998)
Tapestries from the Renaissance to the 19th Century, Mercedes Viale; Cassell London (1984)
Tapestry of the Apocalypse of Angers: Front & Back, Francis Muel; Images de Patrimoine (1996)
Les Tres Riches Heures du Duc de Berry, Edmond Pognon: Minerva (1979)
French Tapestry, Roger-Armand Weigert, Charles t. Branford Company, Newton 59, Mass. (1956)
History of Tapestry, W. G. Tompson; Hodder and Stoughton
Tapestry, Barty Phillips; Phaidon
Tapestry Mirror of History, F.P. Thompson, Crown
Great Tapestries: The Web of History from the 12th to the 20th Century, Edited by Joseph Jobe (with Verlet, Floursone, etc.); Edita Lusagnne
The Conservation of Tapestries & Embroideries, The Getty Conservation Institute
Proceeding of meetings at the Institute Royal du Patrimoine Artistuwis, Brussels, Belgium, September 1987.
Database Timeline -
Date Information/tapestry Source
1066 The Normans invade England
1075 Bayeux Tapestry embroidered (approximate date)
1095/99 The First Crusade
1100 St. Gereon Tapestry, (approximate date) The Tapestry Collection
1189/92 The Third Crusade, sack of Constantinople
1200/30 The Months Tapestry probably created, stylistically similar to the Bayeux Tapestry Gothic tapestry originally used 15 to 20 colours, 13 -15 epi Art of Tapestry
1260 Livres Des Métiers records the rules of the "Saracen" weaver. Tapestry: Craft & Art 1260 Seventh Crusade Tapestry: Craft & Art
1290 Parisian law forbade pregnant women to work on horizontal looms (p70) The Lost Tapestries
1300's Arras weavers start to use silk, metal threads and finer wool, the fine wool becomes
known as Arras thread The Art of Tapestry
1313 The text refers to Arras as high warp work World Tapestry
Wrought in Gold & Silk
1352 Arras weavers settle in Tournai
1371 Jean de Bondolf (Henequin of Bruges), a Flemish artist, working for France and Flanders,
painter and Valet de Chamber for the King is commissioned to create the Apocalypse of
Angers Tapestry: Craft & Art
1375 Richard II King of England
1377 only 15 colours of yarn were used (WT)
1379 Jehanne Aghehe de Londres worked in Arras in 1379 (p70),
Adoration of the Magi, convent woven, tiny nun weaving placed in border The Lost Tapestries
1337/80 Charles VI, King of France Art of Tapestry
1342-1404 Phillip the Bold, Burgundy, a major purchaser of tapestry Wrought in Gold & Silk
1387 The Battle of Roosebecke was so huge it had to be cut into 3 pieces World Tapestry
1398 Tournai Weavers rules established Tapestry: Craft & Art
1402 Life of Saint Piat, for Tournai Cathedral, contained an unidentified synthetic dye Wrought in Gold & Silk
1408 Low warp tapestry, used thick threads, and a grassy green background Art of Tapestry
1408/27 Netherlandish weavers in Venice, Niccolò de Pietro, The Crucifixion and the Lamentation Tapestry in the
Renaissance
1412 Paris weaves move to Lille World Tapestry
1415 French defeat at Agincourt
1418 Parisian Weavers dispersed mostly due to the 100 years war
1396-1467 Phillip the Good, Burgundy, most powerful of the 15th century rulers The Art of Tapestry
1419 Paris weaves move to Mantua World Tapestry
1420 Noble Couple, Arras, uses the same cartoon as used in a previous tapestry,
but reversed and some figures deleted Masterpieces of
Tapestry
1423/67 Arras listed 59 tapestry weavers, 2 were women (p 70) The Lost Tapestries
1422 Paris Guilds decimated (100 years war and English conquest of Paris.) World Tapestry
1423/67 59 master tapestry weavers registered as living in Arras.
Arras decline is caused by customs regulations and political events (war) World Tapestry
1425/50 Jehan Walois, came from Hardwich, Devonshire Hunting Tapestries (4 pieces) The Tapestry Collection
1435/40 Lady Holding a Falcon, same cartoon as 51 &52 clothing styles later date Masterpieces of
Tapestry
1449 Philip le Bon, Duke of Burgundy, influenced the style in Arras which was different
from the French styles.
The painters Guillaume au Vaissel & Baudoin de Balleul (Arras style) The art of Tapestry
1450/93 Pasquier Grenier, from artisan, to middleman, to merchant World Tapestry
1450s Wild Men with Animals, Swiss The Tapestry Collection
1452 Statues of the Brussels weavers, end of 100 years war, Leonardo born Tapestry: Craft & Art
1455 Paris weavers move to Rome World Tapestry
1459/75 Pasquer Grenier, Tournai, his workshop is very busy, The Story of Alexander
The Knight of the Swan, The Story of Esther, The Destruction of Troy, Confirmation
(from the 7 Sacraments) World Tapestry +
The Art of Tapestry
1467/77 Charles the Bold of Burgundy, son of Phillip the Good Wrought in Gold & Silk
1469 Charles the Bold of Burgundy has a complete inventory taken of his tapestries World Tapestry
1460/75 Conrad & Henrie Vulcop, designers of the Trojan War, many copies woven,
pieces in a number of museums Masterpieces of
Tapestry
1470 White linen thread, embroidered in places, Basle Swiss Medieval
Tapestries
1476 Brussels painters complain that weavers are using cartoons not designed by painters, Tapestry: Craft & Art the weavers reply that they have always done so. An agreement follows,
first step towards to control of tapestry by painters.
1477/82 Mary of Burgundy, an influential buyer Wrought in Gold & Silk
1483 Raphael born, Charles VII King of France, Richard III King of England
Wrought in Gold & Silk
1477 Tournai no longer weaves for the Burgundian court, but still weaving. World Tapestry
1477 Louis XI (France) lays siege to Arras but the looms stay active until 1528
1480/1530 Margaret of Austria, rules the low countries Wrought in Gold & Silk
1490s There is a lot of info as to history of ownership in met book of the Lady with the Unicorn Masterpieces of
Tapestry
1483 Birth of Raphael, Richard III King of England, Charles VIII King of France
1485 The Virgin in Glory, an example of a tapestry directly inspired by a painting Tapestry: Craft & Art 1480/90 Netherlands, The Hunt of the Unicorn Masterpieces of
Tapestry
1492 Medici at Florence
1490(?) Nobleman presenting a Heron to a Lady, a rare pink background, mille fleur Masterpieces of
Tapestry
1490 The Search After Truth, cotton was used for the embroidered faces, German The Tapestry Collection
1500 Francois I King of France, Charles V Emperor, Durier, Holbein Cranach
1500 by the end of the fifteenth Century, Arras fading and Bruges, Middleburg, Lille and
Tournai(p52) more info p 50. The fulfillment of the Prophesies at the Birth of Christ The Lost Tapestries
1500s Arnold Poissonier, one of the greatest tapestry weavers, Gypsies at a Chateau Gate, Tournai Masterpieces of
Tapestry
1505/58 Mary of Austria, daughter of Phillip the Handsome, & Joanna of Castile, governed the
Low Countries, from 1526 after the death of her husband Juan II of Hungary dies.
Flanders period of greatest artistic splendor. Wrought in Gold & Silk
1508/1515 Tapestry with Arms of Louise of Savoy-Angouleme shows the introduction of
renaissance style into France. Masterpieces of
Tapestry
1507/30 Margaret of Austria, rules the low countries Wrought in Gold & Silk
1515 The use of dyer's greenweed, logwood, purpurin, this book has a lot of information on dyes Wrought in Gold & Silk
1520 old fustic, logwood, tannin, Mexican cochineal, Wrought in Gold & Silk
1526 Brussels becomes the weaving center of the best and highest quality tapestries in
the Southern Low countries. Wrought in Gold & Silk
1528 Brussels magistrate makes tapestry marks compulsory, Luther preaches reform. Tapestry: Craft & Art
1535/81 Willem de Pannemaker, son of Pieter de Pannemaker, a weaver of the court of Mauguerite
of Austria, was seen to embody the quality of Brussels tapestry weaving at it's peak. Wrought in Gold & Silk
1544 Edict which makes all workshops to adopt a mark of the city and workshop,
to avoid frauds and to guarantee quality Wrought in Gold & Silk
1547 Edict regulating the commerce and production Bruges Wrought in Gold & Silk
1551 Foundation of the Atelier de la Trinite in Paris by Henry II, Paris Tapestry: Craft & Art 1588 Sheldon Looms, English established The Tapestry Collection
1619 Foundation of the Mortlake factory in England, James I Tapestry: Craft & Art