Etan Moira MacNessa

Awards Received

Award of Arms (An Tir) By: Thorin Njalsson, Angharad Drakenhefd o Fynydd Blaena May 19, 1990 (AS XXV) Jambe de Lion (An Tir) By: Gunnarr Brunwulf, Gabriell MacBain May 16, 1992 (AS XXVII) Magistrae Ithra (Ithra) Nov 15, 1992 (AS XXVII) Seagull (Seagirt) By: None listed for this time period Aug 5, 1995 (AS XXX) Baron's Favor (Dragon's Mist) By: Finn Grim Aug 18, 2017 (AS LII) Princess' Talon of Favor (Tir Righ) By: Nadezhda Toranova Feb 17, 2018 (AS LII) Prince's Favor (Tir Righ) By: William MacBrennan Feb 17, 2018 (AS LII) Etoile d'Argent (Tir Righ) By: William MacBrennan, Nadezhda Toranova Feb 17, 2018 (AS LII)

Offices / Retinue

Joint Arts Mistress Seagirt -1989-1992 Shire waterbearer Seagirt 1989 -1991 Co-autocrat for the feast of the Immaculate Confection, Seagirt 1991 Various judging for Principality and Kingdom A&S competitions Lady in Waiting – Princess Nadezhada Toranove, Tir Righ

Classes

Classes Basic Embroidery, blackwork, Bayeaux tapestry stitch, Introduction to tapestry weaving, Colleguium class on the History of Gothic tapestry

Works

1989 –

Embroider 2 panels of the Seagirt Tapestry

Embroider and make yellow dress, large embroidery border based on an early sword scabbard

1992 –

design and embroider Eduardo’s peacock cloak

Create a complete early Celtic outfit for Eduardo, including weave trim and appleque celtic knotwork border

Blackwork bands for various people

2017 – print, embroider outline in gold, and hand sew blue Norman tunic for William Mac Brennan

Norman socks for both William MacBrennan and Finn Grimm – print, embroider and sew

2018 - Design and execute the ducal cloak for Duke Savric

Print and embroider border of Celtic beast from the Chapel at Cashel, hand sew the tunic

Two Mille fleur tapestries based on the Unicorn tapestry, one my own design

King Arthur Tapestry

Sampling for the Baldishol tapestry, and Norse beast using the techniques from the Baldishol tapestry

Tapestry Work

Database -

Database Bibliography - Tapestry: Craft & Art, Maurice Pianzola, Coffinet, Julien; van Nostrand Reinhold Company, (1971)

Masterpieces of Tapestry; Metropolitan Museum of Art (1973)

Wrought in Gold & Silk, Quye, Anita; Halleett, Kathryn; Carretero, Concha Herero, (2009)

This book has the most information on restoration and dyes

The Lost Tapestries of the City of Ladies, Bell, Susan Groag, University of California Press

World Tapestry , Jarry, Madeleine, G.P. Putnam's Sons, New York, (1968)

Tapestry in the Renaissance: Art and Magnificence, Metropolitan Museum of Art Swiss Medieval Tapestries, Gysin, Frederic

A good look at Tapestries that are not usually included in other books

Five Centuries of Tapestry, Bennett, Anna Grey, Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco

The Tapestry Collection: Medieval and Renaissance, Digby, G.F. Wingfield, the V&A Museum

The Art of Tapestry, Various texts, Thames & Hudson, (1964)

The Lady and the Unicorn, Sutherland Lyall, Parkstone Limited, London, (2000)

The Unicorn Tapestries at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Adolfo Salvatore Cavallo; Yale University Press, New Haven & London, (1998)

Tapestries from the Renaissance to the 19th Century, Mercedes Viale; Cassell London (1984)

Tapestry of the Apocalypse of Angers: Front & Back, Francis Muel; Images de Patrimoine (1996)

Les Tres Riches Heures du Duc de Berry, Edmond Pognon: Minerva (1979)

French Tapestry, Roger-Armand Weigert, Charles t. Branford Company, Newton 59, Mass. (1956)

History of Tapestry, W. G. Tompson; Hodder and Stoughton

Tapestry, Barty Phillips; Phaidon

Tapestry Mirror of History, F.P. Thompson, Crown

Great Tapestries: The Web of History from the 12th to the 20th Century, Edited by Joseph Jobe (with Verlet, Floursone, etc.); Edita Lusagnne

The Conservation of Tapestries & Embroideries, The Getty Conservation Institute

Proceeding of meetings at the Institute Royal du Patrimoine Artistuwis, Brussels, Belgium, September 1987.

Database Timeline -

Date Information/tapestry Source

1066 The Normans invade England

1075 Bayeux Tapestry embroidered (approximate date)

1095/99 The First Crusade

1100 St. Gereon Tapestry, (approximate date) The Tapestry Collection

1189/92 The Third Crusade, sack of Constantinople

1200/30 The Months Tapestry probably created, stylistically similar to the Bayeux Tapestry Gothic tapestry originally used 15 to 20 colours, 13 -15 epi Art of Tapestry

1260 Livres Des Métiers records the rules of the "Saracen" weaver. Tapestry: Craft & Art 1260 Seventh Crusade Tapestry: Craft & Art

1290 Parisian law forbade pregnant women to work on horizontal looms (p70) The Lost Tapestries

1300's Arras weavers start to use silk, metal threads and finer wool, the fine wool becomes

          known as Arras thread	                                                                The Art of Tapestry

1313 The text refers to Arras as high warp work World Tapestry

                                                                                                       Wrought in Gold & Silk

1352 Arras weavers settle in Tournai

1371 Jean de Bondolf (Henequin of Bruges), a Flemish artist, working for France and Flanders,

          painter and Valet de Chamber for the King is commissioned to create the Apocalypse of 
          Angers	                                                                                Tapestry: Craft & Art 

1375 Richard II King of England

1377 only 15 colours of yarn were used (WT)

1379 Jehanne Aghehe de Londres worked in Arras in 1379 (p70),

          Adoration of the Magi, convent woven, tiny nun weaving placed in border	                The Lost Tapestries 

1337/80 Charles VI, King of France Art of Tapestry

1342-1404 Phillip the Bold, Burgundy, a major purchaser of tapestry Wrought in Gold & Silk

1387 The Battle of Roosebecke was so huge it had to be cut into 3 pieces World Tapestry

1398 Tournai Weavers rules established Tapestry: Craft & Art

1402 Life of Saint Piat, for Tournai Cathedral, contained an unidentified synthetic dye Wrought in Gold & Silk

1408 Low warp tapestry, used thick threads, and a grassy green background Art of Tapestry

1408/27 Netherlandish weavers in Venice, Niccolò de Pietro, The Crucifixion and the Lamentation Tapestry in the

                                                                                                       Renaissance

1412 Paris weaves move to Lille World Tapestry

1415 French defeat at Agincourt

1418 Parisian Weavers dispersed mostly due to the 100 years war

1396-1467 Phillip the Good, Burgundy, most powerful of the 15th century rulers The Art of Tapestry

1419 Paris weaves move to Mantua World Tapestry

1420 Noble Couple, Arras, uses the same cartoon as used in a previous tapestry,

          but reversed and some figures deleted			                                Masterpieces of
                                                                                                       Tapestry

1423/67 Arras listed 59 tapestry weavers, 2 were women (p 70) The Lost Tapestries

1422 Paris Guilds decimated (100 years war and English conquest of Paris.) World Tapestry

1423/67 59 master tapestry weavers registered as living in Arras.

          Arras decline is caused by customs regulations and political events (war)	                World Tapestry

1425/50 Jehan Walois, came from Hardwich, Devonshire Hunting Tapestries (4 pieces) The Tapestry Collection

1435/40 Lady Holding a Falcon, same cartoon as 51 &52 clothing styles later date Masterpieces of

                                                                                                       Tapestry	

1449 Philip le Bon, Duke of Burgundy, influenced the style in Arras which was different

          from the French styles. 
          The painters Guillaume au Vaissel & Baudoin de Balleul (Arras style)	                        The art of Tapestry

1450/93 Pasquier Grenier, from artisan, to middleman, to merchant World Tapestry

1450s Wild Men with Animals, Swiss The Tapestry Collection

1452 Statues of the Brussels weavers, end of 100 years war, Leonardo born Tapestry: Craft & Art

1455 Paris weavers move to Rome World Tapestry

1459/75 Pasquer Grenier, Tournai, his workshop is very busy, The Story of Alexander

          The Knight of the Swan, The Story of Esther, The Destruction of Troy, Confirmation 
          (from the 7 Sacraments)			                                                World Tapestry + 
                                                                                                       The Art of Tapestry

1467/77 Charles the Bold of Burgundy, son of Phillip the Good Wrought in Gold & Silk

1469 Charles the Bold of Burgundy has a complete inventory taken of his tapestries World Tapestry

1460/75 Conrad & Henrie Vulcop, designers of the Trojan War, many copies woven,

          pieces in a number of museums			                                        Masterpieces of
                                                                                                       Tapestry

1470 White linen thread, embroidered in places, Basle Swiss Medieval

                                                                                                       Tapestries

1476 Brussels painters complain that weavers are using cartoons not designed by painters, Tapestry: Craft & Art the weavers reply that they have always done so. An agreement follows,

          first step towards to control of tapestry by painters.				

1477/82 Mary of Burgundy, an influential buyer Wrought in Gold & Silk

1483 Raphael born, Charles VII King of France, Richard III King of England

          Wrought in Gold & Silk

1477 Tournai no longer weaves for the Burgundian court, but still weaving. World Tapestry

1477 Louis XI (France) lays siege to Arras but the looms stay active until 1528

1480/1530 Margaret of Austria, rules the low countries Wrought in Gold & Silk

1490s There is a lot of info as to history of ownership in met book of the Lady with the Unicorn Masterpieces of

                                                                                                       Tapestry

1483 Birth of Raphael, Richard III King of England, Charles VIII King of France

1485 The Virgin in Glory, an example of a tapestry directly inspired by a painting Tapestry: Craft & Art 1480/90 Netherlands, The Hunt of the Unicorn Masterpieces of

                                                                                                       Tapestry

1492 Medici at Florence

1490(?) Nobleman presenting a Heron to a Lady, a rare pink background, mille fleur Masterpieces of

                                                                                                       Tapestry

1490 The Search After Truth, cotton was used for the embroidered faces, German The Tapestry Collection

1500 Francois I King of France, Charles V Emperor, Durier, Holbein Cranach

1500 by the end of the fifteenth Century, Arras fading and Bruges, Middleburg, Lille and

          Tournai(p52) more info p 50. The fulfillment of the Prophesies at the Birth of Christ	The Lost Tapestries 

1500s Arnold Poissonier, one of the greatest tapestry weavers, Gypsies at a Chateau Gate, Tournai Masterpieces of

                                                                                                       Tapestry

1505/58 Mary of Austria, daughter of Phillip the Handsome, & Joanna of Castile, governed the

          Low Countries, from 1526 after the death of her husband Juan II of Hungary dies. 
          Flanders period of greatest artistic splendor. 			                        Wrought in Gold & Silk

1508/1515 Tapestry with Arms of Louise of Savoy-Angouleme shows the introduction of

          renaissance style into France.			                                        Masterpieces of
                                                                                                       Tapestry

1507/30 Margaret of Austria, rules the low countries Wrought in Gold & Silk

1515 The use of dyer's greenweed, logwood, purpurin, this book has a lot of information on dyes Wrought in Gold & Silk

1520 old fustic, logwood, tannin, Mexican cochineal, Wrought in Gold & Silk

1526 Brussels becomes the weaving center of the best and highest quality tapestries in

          the Southern Low countries.			                                                Wrought in Gold & Silk

1528 Brussels magistrate makes tapestry marks compulsory, Luther preaches reform. Tapestry: Craft & Art

1535/81 Willem de Pannemaker, son of Pieter de Pannemaker, a weaver of the court of Mauguerite

          of Austria, was seen to embody the quality of Brussels tapestry weaving at it's peak.	Wrought in Gold & Silk

1544 Edict which makes all workshops to adopt a mark of the city and workshop,

          to avoid frauds and to guarantee quality			                                Wrought in Gold & Silk

1547 Edict regulating the commerce and production Bruges Wrought in Gold & Silk

1551 Foundation of the Atelier de la Trinite in Paris by Henry II, Paris Tapestry: Craft & Art 1588 Sheldon Looms, English established The Tapestry Collection

1619 Foundation of the Mortlake factory in England, James I Tapestry: Craft & Art